9/9/2023 0 Comments Ph of timeless vitamin c serumhas this not fully proven theory that thanks to this, jojoba might be able to "trick" the skin into thinking it has already produced enough sebum, so it might have "skin balancing" properties for oily skin. Second, jojoba oil is the most similar to human sebum (both being wax esters), and the two are completely miscible. If you have some pure jojoba oil at home, you should be fine using it for years. (Many plant oils tend to go off pretty quickly). Even if you heat it to 370 C (698 F) for 96 hours, it does not budge. So being a wax ester results in a couple of unique properties: First, jojoba oil is extremely stable. 25-30% of human sebum is also wax esters to give us people environmental protection. Wax esters are on the outer surface of several plant leaves to give them environmental protection. Chemically, a wax ester is a fatty acid + a fatty alcohol, one long molecule. Mother Nature also created wax esters but for a totally different purpose. Mother Nature created triglycerides to be easily hydrolyzed (be broken down to a glycerin + 3 fatty acid molecules) and oxidized (the fatty acid is broken down into small parts) - this happens basically when we eat fats or oils and our body generates energy from it. The fatty acids attached to the glycerin vary and thus we have many kinds of oils, but they are all triglycerides. So what the heck is a wax ester and why is that important anyway? Well, to understand what a wax ester is, you first have to know that oils are chemically triglycerides: one glycerin + three fatty acids attached to it. However, if your skin is acne-prone, SAP is your form of Vitamin C and it's a must-try. Overall, we think SAP is a goody! In terms of anti-aging, it's probably not as effective as pure Ascorbic Acid, but it's totally worth a try. Another popular choice is the Mad Hippie Vitamin C serum, and all of these contain vitamin C in the form of SAP. One of the best-selling (vitamin C) serums in Sephora is the Ole Henriksen Truth Serum, while on Amazon it's the OzNaturals Vitamin C 20 Serum. With this combination treatment, the improvement was 29.28% after 4 weeks and 63.10% after 8 weeks of application.Īside from research studies, anecdotal evidence also supports SAP being a promising vitamin C derivative. A nice double-blind study from 2009 showed that 5% SAP reduced the inflammatory lesions by 20.14% and 48.82% within 4 and 8 weeks respectively and when combined with 0.2% retinol the results were even better. In fact, the results were comparable or even slightly better than with 5% benzoyl peroxide.Īnd there is even more regarding SAP and acne. acnes and it also showed in vivo (on real people) that 5% SAP can strongly improve the inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions of acne vulgaris. A 2005 study showed in vitro (in test tubes) that 1% SAP has a strong antimicrobial activity on evil acne causing P. As for skin-brightening, there is a trade publication with in-vivo data showing that SAP can fade brown spots.Īnother thing SAP might be able to do is to help with acne. SAP might also aid collagen boosting in-vitro (made in the lab) data shows that it works, but is less effective than another vitamin C derivative, called MAP (that seems to be as effective as pure AA). We have better news regarding the three magic abilities of vitamin C: there is in-vivo (tested on real people) data showing that SAP does have photo-protective (aka antioxidant) properties, though less than pure AA. Regarding conversion to AA, there seems to be no data about it, so we can neither deny nor confirm it. Unfortunately, it seems to be limited, or to quote a great article from the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology "topically applied ascorbyl phosphate salts are, at very best, poorly absorbed in comparison with AA". The challenge with it though is skin penetration. SAP (the vit C derivative, not the enterprise software, obvs) is a promising derivative that has great stability up to pH 7.
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